Pizza Pizza Pizza

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Comment by Brent Courier 3 hours ago

I was having a car worked on today that was way too close to Il Dolce. 4:30PM? "Dressed" like I was going to play in a basketball game with flip-flops (Kamaaina call them slippah's--much better word) and threw time management to the wind. Great call. I had the restaurant and the chef and wife team all to myself. First of all, they were nice, hard-working people. They were very open, friendly and appreciative of the accolades and welcoming arms of the OC and critics. I didn't want to pry too much, even though I asked if I could have a look at the oven/kitchen in the end. If it must be known, at the time I checked the oven out, it was running at about 811 deg. F and he told me that my pie took about 2.5 to 3 mins to cook. -- He uses Almond Wood, as it has a dense charcoal burning characteristic, assisted by gas--with cooking stones being utilized as the "flat-top" inside his kiln. FYI, 800+ deg F: is hot. I'm laughing to myself because the chef laughed as well. We both agreed, "it's hot in that area."

Moving along,

I apologized for my appearance, and after some friendly conversation, I asked if I could order the Margherita (I'm with fellow OCF blogger Michael Dean, gotta start with a benchmark, regardless of what I've read at Chowhound, Weekly, et. al) to go, "but," I just wanted to have one of my pieces of pizza without the box top being closed. Of course, "no problem." She then asked me, "would you like it crispy?" I replied, "sure, sounds great." I pretty much like the masters of their art to present to me, what they believe is their best work--because usually one gets the best outcome.---(In the end, his wife said she liked the pizza cooked just the way mine appeared.) While we waited, we talked about how business was going (ans."very well"), S. Irene (she said that the LA Times came out after S. Irene's visit to take pics, so she still has no idea what the fairly famous critic looks like: though she wanted to--as she's a fan), and what her, and her customer favorites/most popular items were, on the menu.

Her favorite pizza is one that she said was just added to the menu, simply named: "Bianca." Described as: "parmesano, red onions, pistachios and rosemary, gruyere. ($14)" She said that the popular items on the menu revolve around S. Irene's article, but other pizza choices include the "Patata, Salciccia." The "Asparago and Al Funghi" came into conversation, as well.

I believe that the owners are mostly of Argentinian descent (but don't quote me), hence Empanadas and the Skirt Steak entree lit up the conversation. Might be great items to try--after the pizza.

The Pizza arrived, and it looked beautiful. The special flour used to make the crust, the simple and tasty brushed San Marzano tomato sauce, close to perfect balance of fresh mozzarella to sauce, and perfectly charred crust all made for a very pleasing picture that I didn't take, because I didn't know I was going to their establishment at 4:30PM, on a Wednesday after picking up the car.

I second Michael Dean again, the crust was light, chewy, full of flavor with bites of salt at the right time. It was light, charry, flakey, chewy, deliciousness. You'll see. As with any fine Margherita, no single flavor trampled the other. They worked simply, and harmoniously. The beauty was in the Chef's touch. He understands timing, flavor, balance, and execution.

This is absolutely not a pie that we are used to here in the OC. However, if you want a little taste of a different part of the world, the Chef delivers. It was special, not just because it was different, but because it was really good. (Such a crass way to end, but appropriate.)

BTW, I ended up eating 3-slices on a corner of a table at the restaurant (1/2 the pie.) Whether you end up loving or liking this style of pizza, you'll appreciate their effort to take our taste buds, and sense of quality, to another level.

Enjoy!

Comment by Michael Dean on February 25, 2010 at 8:15am

I tried Il Dolce the other day, ordered a Margherita and a Pepperoni to go. $25 out the door, a bit expensive. The pizza was very good, really like the crust. This pizza has very little sauce, cheese etc., probably authentic for Italy but not what we are used to in the US. I would give it a 7 out of 10 mostly because of the price and it didn't blow me away.

Comment by Andrew Davey on February 21, 2010 at 8:51pm

I'll definitely have to try Il Dolce when I'm back in town. Hopefully by then, all the typical "new restaurant issues" will have been fixed. The al Funghi especially looks promising!

Comment by Brent Courier on February 21, 2010 at 2:25am

Forgive my two glaring typo's, the print is very small when I'm writing and reviewing. (I didn 't see LA Time"s [ Time's ] and missed: at the the end, "even if [ there ] isn't any tiny bits.

Comment by Brent Courier on February 21, 2010 at 2:16am

Some exciting news not yet posted here. I'll keep it succinct:

New Neapolitan-style Pizzeria (this style has been all the rage in NYC, and the Mozza-celebrities brought it to LA) "Il Dolce" (that's the letter I ("Eye") and letter L before "Dolce") moved into refurbished space on Harbor, just barely north of 19th St. in Costa Mesa--I think it's on the corner, and already has an outstanding review courtesy of LA Time"s henchwoman (that's actually a statement of endearment--in this case), S. Irene V., that is quite glowing for an OC establishment (coming from the Times, of course.) Chowhounders of the LA variety. . .since Chowhound doesn't believe the OC needs their own space on their website. . .are waxing rather poetic considering their tendency to lean toward self-indulgent foodie commentary/self-proclaimed food scientist (really wanted to write: "scientif-ik-aury" there. . ) tendencies. Great to see. I'm looking forward to trying this gent's product. He is middle aged, but appears to be following his dream. Though his ultimate dream appeared to begin at a more mature age, he has some very solid "cred." Good for him, and great for us!

What I gathered from the pontifications today (Cliffs Notes):

Start with the Quinoa Salad, and the Meatballs bathed in San Marzano tomato sauce and topped with ricotta (these looked v.worthy--pic posted on Chowhound link I'm providing below.) The chef is an Italian/Argentinian, and also makes "raved about" Empanadas. Who doesn't like a small, indulgent, well-executed meat pie of the S. American-variety?

Pizza raves are for:

his pie which includes roasted baby Yukon gold potatoes, chili oil, gruyere, rosemary, et.al, Seems to be a bit the rage to have the starch on the starch these days. I'm sure it's good. I'll have to be converted.

al Funghi (mushroom, carmelized onions . . .etc.

Salciccia (cheese, meat, rapini, not red, but white garlic sauced

proverbial Procuitto, with arugula leafs awkwardly unanchored on top of good pie. (I know, it's popular. . ) I'm sure truffle oil versions on pies are to follow. . .Don't get me wrong, I like sparing use of truffle, in the right space.

--I know I'll be going for the Margherita first, regardless.

***Huge note, before I forget: Ask for a little extra char on the crust (bottom/middle) Very consistent foodie complaint. The chef doesn't mind, they say.***

I did see a pizza on the menu that reminded me of a pizza I had in Sicily 20-yrs ago -- an asparagus variety with a fried egg. (cheese, eggs, veg and crisp pizza crust work harmoniously together--and I have nary seen the addition of egg to the pizza center since traveling to Italy. (It's superb, if executed properly.) (In Sicily, my variety had Med. seafood, but concept is familiar, and interesting.)

That's it. No sweetbreads, no osso buco, no entrail soups (Vietnamese Pho is pretty far as I go on that one (soups), anyways (entrails/connective tissue/ligaments.)) You know, the stuff that goes well with a nice Amarone. . .It looks like he's off to a great start, though. (I did hear that his other items were well done, such as S. Irene's complimentary comments on his "Buccatini all'amatriciana." -- That's another "hot" dish to make well these days, so good for him. From Wikipedia: (Italian pronunciation: [amatriˈtʃaːna]) is a traditional Italian pasta sauce based on guanciale (dried pork cheek), pecorino cheese, and since the late 18th century also tomato. Originating from the town of Amatrice (in the mountainous Province of Rieti of the Lazio region), the Amatriciana is one of the most well-known pasta sauces in Italian cuisine.

So much for a succinct Cliffs-version. (Believe me, it actually is.)

chowhound.chow.com/topics/674319

Hopefully my link above worked. Not too user friendly.

OC Weekly has the only menu you can copy to your computer/printer for "IL Dolce" restaurant. No website for "IL Doce," yet. . .

S. Irene's article is available via the LA Times website.

Let's go wish the Chef good fortune.

I'll go as soon as I can, and have a glass of Amarone, even if their aren't any bits other than jowl in my "amatriciana."

--Brent

Comment by Andrew Davey on February 6, 2010 at 10:08pm

I dunno. Pizzeria Ortica in Costa Mesa is quite great. Overall, it's my second favorite pizza of all time and my #1 fave for California. (My all time fave has to be Settebello in Las Vegas... It's one of the only "Vera Pizza Napoletana" joints in all of America!)

But anyway, Chef David Myers and his team at Pizzeria Ortica do a great job of making pizzas here.

Comment by Brent Courier on January 15, 2010 at 11:14am

Disclaimer: if you are in the "Italian-group" - this is a re-post on the "Pizza-group-site":

This is not OC-related, but many of us travel, and we have no Chowhound OC--I've petitioned, but get no response. I've been traveling to NYC a lot, and if you get the opportunity--check out Artichoke Brasille in East Village. Bring a friend so you can try their 3-varieties (Gigantic Artichoke/Spinach/Alfredo slice on nicely oiled NYC-water crust, Sicilian, and Margarite (sp?) charred thin crust) (primo red sauce--my fave), and a Big Gulp Beer for $5.50. This place is new, but they've got "classic"--down. To keep the thread OC-related, I've not found the holy-grail of Pizza and Italian, yet, in the OC. No Pizzeria Mozza's in town. Entice Batali and Silverton to the promised land--someone. . .

Comment by Jules on September 23, 2009 at 3:13pm

I loved my first experience at pizzeria mozza! unfortunately, my recent visit there was lacking on customer service. hope you have a better experience =)

Comment by Meribeth Gunn on September 23, 2009 at 2:58pm

Pizzeria Mozza - the best... I dream of the Pizza and am going to be there on Saturday to savor it once again!

Local... I agree with Brent.. Al's by the slice!

Comment by Brent Courier on June 1, 2009 at 12:12pm

I'm going to vote for my local joint--Al's NY Pizza in CM off 17th and Irvine Ave. There is a caveat, though. It is best when ordered by the slice and kept with a simple topping or plain--otherwise, the pizza tends to get steamed in the box. The Pizza Bakery makes a nice CA pie. Round Table, fresh at the restaurant w/ original crust is good (I don't usually like chains, but RT does a nice job (King Arthur Supreme.) Laventina's on the penninsula is good and cheap. Unfortunately, the best slice this side of NY (Di Fara's and Grimaldi's (Brooklyn), John's, and Lombardi's (GV)), in my humble opinion--is at Luigi's in San Diego. (Golden Hill area) For Chicago Pie, the best (IMO) is Geno's East in Chicago with crumbled sausage and pepperoni. If you add too many toppings, it gets too muddled. Also, try Old Chicago Pizzeria in Petaluma, CA. Again, there's nothing like the goods in Brooklyn.

As a writer previously wrote: Pizzeria Mozza in LA is on my short list to try. I'm quite certain that a Silverton/Batali co-op is a can't miss.

I must've hit Massimo's on a bad night. I didn't appreciate it as much as a previous writer.

--TheBC

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