
Temecula is a lovely little town whose reputation for wine production seems to grow exponentially with each passing year. The only caveat to the city is that it is inconveniently located on the backside of the Santa Ana Mountains, which can make for a bit of a challenge to visit on a regular basis. Fortunately, the South Coast Winery, one of the gems of the Temecula valley, launched their eponymous restaurant in the South Coast Metro area last year to make it easier to indulge in the fruits of their vineyard, which was excellent enough for the venue to secure this year’s prestigious Golden Bear Award for the best winery in the state – a Southern California first. So when my wife and I were invited to South Coast Winery’s inaugural wine dinner, we already knew that the liquid portion of the meal would elicit raves, and we were quite intrigued if the accompanying food would be able to do the same. Delightfully, all four courses that Executive Chef Enrique Acuna presented were able to match each impressive stride set forth by each wine flight.
The mood and season of the evening was established brilliantly before the first course was even presented, courtesy of the Ruby Cuvee Sparkling Syrah that was poured for the champagne reception. The spectacular red gradient shade of the full syrah gave it visually artistic aura, and its mild crispness enhanced the cranberry flavor of the wine rather than interfering with it. I could only imagine how well this wine would pair with a Thanksgiving dinner, and since we purchased a bottle of it at night’s end I am excited that such knowledge is imminent.
The actual meal started with a butternut squash soup tinged with maple syrup and served with a thin pancetta chip and brioche croutons, a hearty dish that Acuna designed to combat the chill of the upcoming season. The subtle sweetness of the syrup was beautifully tempered with the smoky tang of the pancetta, creating a comforting taste sensation that took me back to the joyous aromas and flavors that would emanate from my grandparent’s kitchen on Saturday mornings. The course was accompanied by a 2006 Reserve Chardonnay from the Ramirez and Huis Vineyards. The vintage had a pronounced, heavy oak flavor that lent a nice balance to the soup’s taste.
The soup was followed by ravioli of duck confit accentuated by a bed of arugula dusted with pine nuts and thyme veloute. The pine nuts on this second course paired beautifully with the arugula and the thyme to add a woodsy, complex aura to the dish that worked well with the slight gaminess of the duck. And the pasta that enveloped the confit was thin and unobtrusive, much like the rice skin on a good spring roll, allowing the tasty morsels within its pocket to shine through. The spice of the dish was further brought out by the 2006 Grenache from the Carter Estate Vineyards, whose peppery tone gave way to a mild clove and cinnamon accent at its finish that deliberately played off the natural tint of the pine nuts.
The main course of the evening starred a perfectly prepared beef filet that rested upon a generous mound of chive spaetzle and maitake mushrooms. The filet’s pink hue was so beautiful it was almost a shame that it had to be eaten. That being said, I had no regrets having its wonderfully full flavor engulf my palate, as it was a truly decadent piece of meat. Additionally, the spaetzle and mushrooms added an earthy depth to the beef’s flavors that added a resplendent balance to the dish. The accompanying wine, the 2003 Carter Estates Private Reserve Wild Horse Peak Merlot, was an extension of the balance that the main course featured, as its flavor maintained an even keel after a boasting a boisterous start.
Desert found us enjoying a delicious crostata loaded with roasted apple, pear and quince and topped with vanilla ice cream. Much like the soup that bookended the meal, the crostata was lusciously hearty; a perfect cap for an autumn meal. This was paired with a lovely sparkling Gewurztraminer that was light and refreshing, and its mild fruitiness allowed it to work well with the dessert instead of against it.
The dinner at South Coast Winery was not the perfect meal, as there was a minor quibble with the heat of the soup (it could have been served at a slightly higher temperature). But such a small peccadillo was hardly reason for detraction, since this was South Coast Winery’s first wine pairing dinner. In fact, it was quite the auspicious debut, both for the meal and the private banquet room that housed it. Dubbed the Vintner Room, the stark white of the space was nicely fashioned with wood motifs to create a soft, relaxing aura, while the glass wall that opens up to the adjacent patio gives the room a depth that most enclosed banquet rooms lack. The design of the room keeps it in tune with the rest of South Coast Winery’s facility, which looks and feels like it was lovingly plucked from the heart of wine country. Indeed, it does stand out amongst the ordinary makeup of the surrounding area. But that is very apropos, because the South Coast Winery provides such a wonderful culinary experience, it deserves to gleam brightly.
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